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In North Africa, the long-term coexistence between Jews and Muslims generated many interfaith crossings. It was not uncommon for the followers of one religion to visit a shrine of the other, in order to obtain baraka (divine grace). This phenomenon has mostly disappeared throughout the Maghreb, but it persists on the island of Djerba (southern Tunisia), where over a thousand Jews are still living. Every year, for the Jewish holiday of Lag Ba’Omer, a pilgrimage gathers together thousands of Jewish pilgrims in the Ghriba synagogue. Many come from abroad, notably from France and Israel, where many Tunisian Jews migrated after the mid-20th century. Some Muslims also participate at different moments of the pilgrimage. Based on historical research and on ethnographic work carried out in 2014 and 2022, this article elucidates a series of paradoxes that make the singularity of this holy place. Here the interactions between Jews and Muslims at the shrine are characterized by an intense conviviality. Yet, during the last decades this site has been affected by tangible eruptions of bloody violence by Islamist terrorists. The structure of the pilgrimage seems to rest on a delicate balance between local and external forces. More generally, the Ghriba pilgrimage is crossed by major political dynamics, and is recurrently affected by the turmoil of the Israeli-Palestinian conflict.
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Le workshop international « Connectivités djerbiennes : Globalisations méditerranéennes des Juifs de Djerba » que nous avons co-organisé, initialement prévu en mars 2020 à l'IMéRA à Marseille, s'est finalement tenu en présentiel les 27 et 28 juin 2022. Son objectif était d'inaugurer une recherche collective et pluridisciplinaire menée dans le cadre d'un programme financé par l'A*Midex (Aix-Marseille univ.) en partenariat avec le Centre de recherche français à Jérusalem (CRFJ) et l'Institut de recherche sur le Maghreb contemporain (IRMC) à Tunis. Les difficultés d'organisation d'événements internationaux durant la pandémie COVID-19 ont conduit à reporter cet atelier au terme de ce programme, même si un certain nombre d'événements intermédiaires 3 ont permis de jalonner la mise en dialogue des différentes recherches effectuées par les membres du groupe. Celui-ci se compose d'universitaires français, israéliens et tunisiens, en mesure d'appréhender la diaspora des Juifs de Djerba dans ses points d'ancrages principaux, qui établissent entre eux diverses connectivités, et dessinent de façon originale une globalisation méditerranéenne nourrie d'échanges sud-sud.
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Each egg, a wish on the Jewish pilgrimage to the strange Tunisian synagogue
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The Berber people, natives of the Maghreb region, are located on the island of Djerba, where Jewish culture is firmly established. In addition, traces of connection with Jerusalem, the center of the Jewish community, persist throughout the island. The island of Djerba is the only holy place for Jews outside Jerusalem. It is also well known as the ‘Antechamber of Jerusalem’ and preserves its traces relatively well. Therefore, Djerba Island is a very meaningful place as it can look at the exchanges of Jewish diaspora civilization, coexistence, and win-win relationship between Islam and Jews, and Berber. In order to understand the meaning of ‘Antechamber of Jerusalem’, this paper aims to briefly examine the Jewish situation in three Maghreb countries (Morocco, Algeria, and Tunisia) before and after French colonial rule, and to examine the current situation of Jews in the region developed in history. Next, we will assess the characteristics of the Jewish community on the island of Djerba, called the ‘Antechamber of Jerusalem’. Like the rest of the Maghreb region, the island of Djerba is also a place of cultural division. Nevertheless, the memory of Jerusalem remains the strongest in history on the island of Djerba. In this sense, it seems meaningful to examine the issue of epistemological ‘rupture or 'continuity’. This shows how Jews were able to coexist and co-exist on the island of Djerba, the ‘Antechamber of Jerusalem’, and how the French colonization and subsequent process led to a conflict and a ‘rupture’ in the coexistence. Therefore, through this paper, we will be able to understand the Jewish cultural identity of the island of Djerba, coexistence, and conflict of civilization
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Berber and Jerusalem are not often mentioned because there is not much connection between them. This is because the existence of berber itself has not been mentioned in history. Moreover, the geographical distance from Jerusalem made it impossible to imagine the Berber connection to Jerusalem. However, 'Yennayer', the most important festival for Berbers today, mentions the ancient Pharaoh and Jerusalem. It shows that the relationship between the Berbers, Jerusalem, and the jews has existed since ancient times. This study examines the mechanism of 'conflict and coexistence' between Berber and Jerusalem from ancient times to the present. First, examine the relationship between the Berbers, Jerusalem, and Jews, focusing on the era of the Pharaoh and the era after the destruction of the Jerusalem temple. This process seems very meaningful in examining the relationship between the ancient Berbers and Jerusalem. Second, although there may have been conflicts, there are regions where the paradigm of 'coexistence' has been maintained relatively well. This is not Jerusalem, but the case of Djerba island, which contains the soul of Jerusalem, is a case in point. Although Djerba island is an islamization place, it is a unique place where is lamic ibadism, Berbers, and Jews form a 'coexistence' relationship. It examine how they were able to maintain a relationship of coexistence. Finally, we examine the conflict relationship that erupted again before and after French colonial rule. Such a process provides a meaningful interpretation in examining how the mechanism of 'conflict and coexistence' between Berber and Jerusalem has been formed, and is useful for understanding various forms of cultural exchange in the region.
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Au musée d’Art et d’histoire du judaïsme, à Paris, une exposition consacrée au photographe Jacques Perez remet à l’honneur Djerba, sa lumière et son dernier ilot hébraïque.
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Nizar Chabbi nous a fait parvenir ce texte, co-écrit avec Audrey Bomse, avocate juive américaine de Floride, publié une première fois en mai 2014, et réécrit récemment, où il évoque les dessous peu ragoûtants du pèlerinage juif à la synagogue de la Ghriba, à Djerba, en Tunisie. La normalisation du président Kaïs Saïed, le plus...
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